The Perils of Puppyhood: Recommendations for Bringing Home a Pup

Hello again, with Christmas around the corner we know a puppy is probably at the top of a lot of lists. We get a ton of questions about the necessities & recommendations for adding a puppy to the family! As an RVT & dog owner practically my whole life – I have cared for my fair share of puppies of all shapes, sizes, types, & health statuses. The products & tips I will recommend are mostly A.) things we have tested & approved in our household or at Fetch & Stay B.) Knowledge I acquired through Veterinary Technician school, hands-on work, & CE meetings, or C.) the most high quality products on the market to date – in saying that, some things may not work for your puppy, your budget, or even you & that’s okay there is no perfect way to own & raise a puppy! Without further ado here we go:

BREEDS: Do your research. Puppies are one size fits all. Before impulse bringing home a cute ball of fur make sure you know what to expect!

FOOD: Puppy specific food, a general rule is to keep them on a puppy food for at least a year. Beyond that you can switch to an adult recipe. Reason being, puppies have very different nutritional needs than an adult dog. Look for a food with minimal & whole ingredients. Any food with “by-product” or “meal” listed within the first few ingredients are not recommended.

TREATS: Small training treats. I recommend using their kibble as treats making sure you are taking it our of their daily caloric allowance either way. Again, look for minimal & whole ingredients.

FOOD/WATER DISH: Stainless steel is recommended. It doesn’t hold bacteria, is easy to wash, & does not crack. Buy bowls that your puppy can grow into, this will save money in the long run. Puppies tend to eat their food fast & the bigger the bowl is the more spread out their food is forcing them to slow down. If they are still eating fast busy bowls or a cookie sheet are great options. Ceramic food and water bowls can be used but check frequently for cracks or breaks.

CRATE/KENNEL: The most common thought process when purchasing a kennel is “bigger is better” which is false. Your pup only needs enough room to stand up, turn around, & lay down. I recommend buying an adjustable, wire crate if you plan on kenneling long term. Dogs are den dwellers by nature so getting used to a small crate when crate training is usually a simple task to manage. This also aids in potty training, more times than not a dog will not go to the restroom where it sleeps or eats. Granted this is a general rule & will ultimately depend on the amount of time they are left in there & their level of training. Accidents will happen during puppy stages. A crate or kennel also prepares them if they are to need to stay at a veterinary clinic or boarding facility overnight. It takes the shock out of the process & ultimately keeps their stress reduced.

BEDDING: No fancy tempurpedic jazz. You own a puppy & although you want them to be comfy spending $70 on a dog bed to put in their kennel this is not something you want to do at this stage. Why? Again, you own a puppy. A teething, peeing, pooping, easily bored puppy. I recommend towels, blankets, & crate mats until they are potty trained & finished teething. Anything that is easy to wash.

COLLAR: I suggest adjustable collars they can grow into (depending on the breed you will most likely have to buy another eventually). Martingale collars are my favorite for getting them use to wearing a collar & leash training. They are not as adjustable as clip-on collars but they are comfortable for constant wear & keep them from being able to slip out if on a leash. Collars should be snug when on leash, generally rule is 2 fingers of space underneath it. Harnesses are NOT good training tools, they actually encourage leash pulling (can you say sled dog?) which is a behavior you do not want your pup to develop.

LEASH: I recommend a double-handled & non retractable leash. Ideally 4-6 feet. Why non-retractable? You are your dog’s boss, a retractable leash gives a dog more freedom & overall can be dangerous. The thin cord can quickly become a weapon if your dog pulls, wraps around your legs, or is in close proximity to another dog who may not be as friendly. I have seen many injuries inflicted by retractable leashes, on humans & dogs alike. For leash training, clip your dogs leash on his/her collar while in the house to allow them to get used to having it on. Leash training takes time but if you start early and correctly your dog will be a pro.

IDENTIFICATION: Your puppy should wear a collar with ID tags at all times. Especially at this curious puppyhood stage. I recommend engraving 1.) Your dog’s name 2.) Two phone numbers & 3.) Your city & state on one side of the ID tag. On the back your veterinary clinic’s name & phone number in case of emergency. Your veterinarian will also issue a rabies tag around 16 weeks old that should be worn. If you don’t like the jingle of the tags, they make tag silencers to help with the noise!

SHAMPOO: A lot of shampoos can strip the natural oils of the hair & skin ultimately drying your dog out. I recommend the Earthbath line, all of their products are amazing & are naturally formulated which is also a huge plus. They also do not strip topical flea & tick products if applied.

BRUSHES/COMBS: Do your research & find out what type will work best for your dog. For shedding dogs, you should own a furminator. It will change your life. Trust me on this, we own 2 corgis – I am convinced their full time job is to watch me vacuum. No matter the type of brush, I recommend wire teeth & also check for damage as bent wires can be painful when brushing. Brushes do not prevent the need for grooming in some dogs so you should consult with a professional dog groomer on the grooming needs of your dog.

TOYS: No toys with small pieces that can be chewed off and swallowed & no rope toys as they can unravel & quickly become a blockage in the intestines. I recommend nylabones & hard plastic toys that aren’t likely to fall apart or be chewed up as easily. Puzzles toys are great to keep them occupied & work their mind. Kong toys are awesome & can be filled with dog food, peanut butter, or other small treats. They are also safe to leave in their kennel with them. Plush toys & tennis balls are good toys as well, but I do not suggest leaving them unattended with them.

FOOD STORAGE: Food should be stored in its original container or an air tight container to prevent spoiling, or in Oklahoma excessive moisture exposure. You should also have a measuring scoop or cup to measure the correct amount for each meal.

POTTY PADS: Optional & situation dependent. I do not prefer them necessarily but if you are unable to let them out at appropriate times they can be a helpful tool when potty training if used correctly – but a puppy should not depend on them as a training tool.

FIRST AID KIT: I recommend purchasing a pet first aid kit from Amazon or a DIY one like we have at home. We have Neosporin, cotton swabs, alcohol pads, peroxide, tweezers, vet wrap, medical tape, non-scented baby wipes, benadryl, & nonstick bandages. Obviously, for major injuries or issues please call your veterinarian.

POOP SCOOP & BAGS: Necessary for your own benefit & for contamination. Dog poo can carry a multitude of parasites & even virus bearing bacteria. It is also a breeding ground for flies. It is essential that you maintain your yard. I do not have a preference on scoops, we have the rake & shovel kind at Fetch & Stay & it works great. Small bags or even walmart sacks are great to have handy for when you are in public or on walks & your pet has to go!

CARPET STAIN REMOVER: No explanation needed. We like the Resolve brand for pets.

CAR SEAT COVER: I like the hammock kind. This keeps my dogs safe in the back seat where if an accident were to happen they are less likely to fly into the floor board or worse, up into the front of the car. For puppies, if they were to have an accident this kind also keeps them confined a little more than the other types. In this same category, seat belts for dogs. I personally do not use them but have seen them prove helpful for dogs who want to climb all over the car when riding.

BINDER/FOLDER: For keeping all of their information & veterinary records in one place.

VETERINARY CLINICS: Your puppy will need to have puppy boosters every 3-4 weeks until he/she is 16-18 weeks old & every year following. You should establish a vet clinic before bringing your puppy home. Most will even let you schedule consultations with veterinarians prior to so you can ask questions!

If you made it this far THANK YOU – it’s a lot of information, we know, but all of which is needed! Please let us know if you have any further questions!